These are note on finishing hardwood, softwood, and ply with dyes (as opposed to stains or paints). The idea is that the natural grain of the wood is preserved.
Dyes come in small quantities and are mixed with A) each other and B) a solvent to produce the actual applicable product. Mixing with each other allows creation of complex colors from only a handful of base ingredients. Different solvents can be used to tailor the application process as needed.
Water is cheap and non-flammable, but it causes the grain to raise and necessitates another pass of sanding. Distilled water is preferable, as tap water tends to contain impurities.
Alcohol (denatured) seemingly works way better. It lowers the drying time substantially, which prevents grain raise and bleed-across between colors. A well-ventilated paint room is required.
An actual finishing coat must be put over any dye. Need to do some research and determine the options...
It seems some do a layer of dye, then a layer of shellac (or several), then a varnish. The shellac seems to function purely to protect the dye while the varnish sets, as the varnish can re-dissolve the dye. If a person uses water-solvent with the dye and then an oil-based varnish, shellac is unnecessary. I'll be testing this soon.
The manufacturer does not recommend for food-bearing surfaces. Probably toxic. Releases VOC's so best not to store inside.
Sprayable. Wear a mask and use gloves.
Mixing Reference: Nominally 1 oz of powder per quart of solvent. That works out to 28.3g / quart, or 7g / cup.